The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is smoky with peppery wild berries, crushed roses and hints of flowery underbrush. This coasts across the palate, with silky textures, infused by saline-mineral and perfumed red fruits. There's an almost-sultry character here, seductive, yet also rough around the edges, with nervous acids that nicely balance the silty tannins that it leaves behind. This is far from a classic style of Brunello, yet impossible to ignore, captivating to the senses and sure to provide a massive amount of pleasure over the medium term.

Aromas of steeped prune, pipe tobacco and new leather shape the nose along with a whiff of iris. On the ripe, monolithic palate, velvety, close-grained tannins accompany fleshy black cherry and licorice before closing on the heat of evident alcohol that throws it off balance.